Would you know what wine tasted like AD 79? I certainly don't, I'm not that old.

The eminent 'Mastroberardino' estate in Campania is trying to find out exactly that. They have taken it upon themselves to start planting ancient southern Italian grape varieties within the boundaries of old Pompeii. Plinius, the great Italian philosopher, already talked about the great wines of the Campanian plain. He may have been talking about the Aglianico grape variety, which makes some of the most astounding wines in the area, doubtless due to the rich volcanic soil.

One grape that stands out to me, also due to it's interesting name is Piedirosso. Literally translated this means 'red foot' and apparently refers to the red feet of the pigeons. This is one of the varieties that Mastroberardino are trying out within the walls of Pompeii. Not that there's much chance of actually tasting the stuff. Supply is almost non-existent and will more than likely be limited to official banquets hosted by Berlusconi and intimate friends.

The grape, fortunately is still planted though. Although I wouldn't want to suggest it tastes anywhere near what it would have tasted like in AD 79, it's not all bad. An interesting producer to look out for is Grotta del Sole, based in Quarto, just in land from Sorrento.

I have seen some of the 'Grotta del Sole' wines in Centotre based in Edinburgh. They use a system of wine sales similar to Valvona & Crolla. No surprise as it runs in the family, Victor Contini of V&C fame owns this very well run establishment.

Also see: Two Italians