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Austrian Delights.
It was the worst thing that could have
happened in a country that didn't mean that much in the
wine world anyway, other than beefing up some thinner
German wines. Major adulteration of wine by certain
merchants and bigger producers in 1985 caused one of the
biggest wine scandals in the 20th century. The scandal
erupted around the addition of di-ethylene glycol
(commonly referred to as anti-freeze).
The short term impact was massive as sales dropped
sharply to about a fifth of the previous years output,
with customers turning their noses up at any Austrian
wine, although the stuff was really only used to bolster
up the sweeter wines.
Longer term the scandal might have actually been the
saving grace for Austrian wine. The laws were
comprehensively reformed to some of the strictest in the
world. In many cases they were also simplified, giving a
much clearer choice to the consumer.
Many of the very conscientious producers are embracing
the new laws, reducing yields and are growing healthier
grapes. A lot of them are therefore making very
interesting wines from mainly indigenous grape
varieties.
Here are a couple of recent examples.
Lois 2003
Fred Loimer
Gruner Veltliner
Kamptal – Langenlois
Qualitatswein Trocken
£7.49 at Peckham's - Glasgow
Don’t let the horrendous green colour of the foil and
the synthetic cork put you off. They look positively
toxic, but I survived, so you should be fine.
I’ve not tasted many Gruner Veltliners, so I’m not able
to really compare, but I thought this was a pretty good
wine. Pleasant nose of citrus fruit and a slight herby
edge. Totally dry on the palate. Citrus fruit again and
quite minerally. Medium body and acidity. Very
refreshing, almost green, but that may just have been
the effect of looking at the bottle a bit too long.
Lenz Moser Prestige 2000
Blaufrankisch
Barrique
Neckenmarkt – Mittelburgenland
£8.49 at Peckham's - Glasgow
As the name suggests, this is an oak-aged red wine
made from the native ‘Blaufrankische’ variety.
Wonderfully restrained nose of well integrated oak.
Black forest fruit with a hint of spice. Quite a nice
body to it. None of the new world opulence, but more an
old world elegance about this one.
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