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Austrian Delights.


It was the worst thing that could have happened in a country that didn't mean that much in the wine world anyway, other than beefing up some thinner German wines. Major adulteration of wine by certain merchants and bigger producers in 1985 caused one of the biggest wine scandals in the 20th century. The scandal erupted around the addition of di-ethylene glycol (commonly referred to as anti-freeze).

The short term impact was massive as sales dropped sharply to about a fifth of the previous years output, with customers turning their noses up at any Austrian wine, although the stuff was really only used to bolster up the sweeter wines.
Longer term the scandal might have actually been the saving grace for Austrian wine. The laws were comprehensively reformed to some of the strictest in the world. In many cases they were also simplified, giving a much clearer choice to the consumer.

Many of the very conscientious producers are embracing the new laws, reducing yields and are growing healthier grapes. A lot of them are therefore making very interesting wines from mainly indigenous grape varieties.

Here are a couple of recent examples.

Lois 2003
Fred Loimer
Gruner Veltliner
Kamptal – Langenlois
Qualitatswein Trocken
£7.49 at Peckham's - Glasgow

Don’t let the horrendous green colour of the foil and the synthetic cork put you off. They look positively toxic, but I survived, so you should be fine.
I’ve not tasted many Gruner Veltliners, so I’m not able to really compare, but I thought this was a pretty good wine. Pleasant nose of citrus fruit and a slight herby edge. Totally dry on the palate. Citrus fruit again and quite minerally. Medium body and acidity. Very refreshing, almost green, but that may just have been the effect of looking at the bottle a bit too long.

Lenz Moser Prestige 2000
Blaufrankisch
Barrique
Neckenmarkt – Mittelburgenland
£8.49 at Peckham's - Glasgow

As the name suggests, this is an oak-aged red wine made from the native ‘Blaufrankische’ variety.
Wonderfully restrained nose of well integrated oak. Black forest fruit with a hint of spice. Quite a nice body to it. None of the new world opulence, but more an old world elegance about this one.