High above the river Rhine and the village of Winkel, not far from Rudesheim, is the impressive Schloss Johannisberg. One of the most historic estates in Germany it is credited with the inadvertent invention of the German system of harvesting by ripeness levels. In 1775 the harvest courier was late in arriving with the permission to commence harvesting, which was traditionally given by the Prince-Abbot of Fulda. By the time harvest started many of the grapes had shrivelled and were beginning to rot. And so the Spatlese (or late harvest) was invented.

Wine has been produced at the estate for over 900 years. Mostly, as so often is the case in vinous history, the estate was run by monks. Riesling was planted on the slopes in the early 18th century after a major replanting effort, where as many as 294,000 vines were planted in 1719 and 1720. Only 38,500 of those were of the Riesling variety, but it heralded a new era in winegrowing for pretty much all of Germany and beyond.

On the recent Germany/Alsace wine trip we managed a very quick visit to Schloss Johannisberg, but never had the chance to taste any of the wines. Fortunately they were at the Decanter Fine Wine Encounter in London last month, so we could make up for it. And impressive the wines certainly are, both in stature and price.

Rotlack
Riesling Kabinett 2004
£16.29 PMH Wines

Floral nose, very refreshing with a good length.

Grunlack
Riesling Spatlese 2004

£22.79 (2003) PMH Wines

Nice fresh floral nose. Slightly honeyed with great acidity.

Rosalack
Riesling Auslese 2004
£64.69 PMH Wines

Very good. Fantastic acidity to balance the  obvious honeyed sweetness. Already quite complex but still closed. This would be interesting to taste in a few (many) years time, but it is a little over my budget to be honest.

I also tasted the Rosa-Goldlack Beerenauslese 2004. Much to soon, no doubt. This is nectar, incredibly concentrated and no doubt way out of my price range. I didn't want to ask.

PMH Wines also stock wines of a few other German producers, such as Dr Loosen and Ernst Loosen's Wolf Estate in the Pfalz.

The Riesling grape showing the rather unappetising looking 'noble rot'. It makes some stunning wines, though.