Jancis Robinson MW Truly 21st Century Wines.

Saturday 18 November 2006

The masterclass was not intended to unearth the 11 best wines in the world but would demonstrate how the world of wine has moved on since we all got very excited about the year 2000. None of the wines below existed back then in any shape or form and it is a testament to the enterprising winemakers that unusual grapes are now found in the usual places and the usual grapes are found in unusual places. It certainly makes for a pleasurable tasting as shown below.

Abacela, Albarino 2005

Oregon, USA

A grape commonly more associated with the extreme north-west of Spain this Oregon example failed to impress greatly. But then Jancis thought it may just have been a slightly off bottle.

Domaine Matassa,

Matassa Blanc 2005

Languedoc

This is incredible stuff. The most amazing and unusual nose. I found it difficult to describe, tea, herbal, mineral, smoky? Maybe all. Jancis called it schist after the soil type. Very dry with a medium body and fairly high acidity. Lemons and apples but a little bit missing in the middle. This should fill out with a year or two age. Apparently the 2003 is lovely now. Around £16.

Waitaki Braids

Pinot Noir 2004

North-East Otago - New Zealand

Fragrant strawberry nose, fresh and not very complex. Ripe, soft and elegant strawberry and cherry fruit on the palate with a good balance of ripe fruit and acidity.

Fazenda Santa Maria

Rio Sol 2005

San Francisco River Valley - Brazil

A 50/50 blend of Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon. No great complexity. Toasty black fruit and fairly high tannins. Wants some food.

This winery manages to produce two vintages per year due to its extreme climate. Sounds great sitting here in mid-winter Scotland. It's cheap too. £4.99 in Waitrose although they don't list it on-line at the moment.

Grace

Chairman's Reserve 2004

China.

A classic Bordeaux blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc.

This has a pleasant, developing nose of raspberry and vanilla pods. Soft mellow tannin and juicy berry fruit make this a very respectable wine. I think it retails at around £30 although far from easy to get your hands on.

Despagne

Girolate 2001

Entre-deux-mers, Bordeaux.

The limestone soils and gentle southern slope ensure a lovely seductive nose. Violets and soft dark fruit. It is ripe, fresh and elegant, with medium soft tannins. Mainly Merlot  with a little bit of Cabernet Sauvignon. Not cheap at £40-£60, but it has a lot going for it.

Gestad

Ziereisen, Syrah 2004

Baden, Germany.

Brambly, smoky fruit. Very slight rubbery note and spicy. Pepper and lemon thyme. The palate is delicate and balanced with smoky black fruit and well balanced tannin and acidity. Ripe and soft and very, very good.

Vina Falernia

Alta Tierra Syrah 2004

Elqui Valley, Chile.

High octane, smoky. Black fruit, some strawberry and oak. Dry but very ripe fruit on the palate. Ripe tannin. New world in style; ripe and bold, but well-balanced. Long and powerful.

Bodegas Colome 2004

Donald Hess

Salta, Argentina.

From the highest vineyards in the world comes this wonderful blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvigon and Tannat. It's made along biodynamic principles.

Very seductive, deep nose. Ripe dark fruit with lovely spicy characters. Intense fresh fruit like strawberry and blackberry and olives. Medium tannin, soft and ripe. Great balance and length.

I had tasted the Colome before as I got a bottle out of Oddbins a good few months earlier. Unfortunately they've sold out, not surprising as it's only £12.99! Too cheap said Jancis.

Finca Sandoval 2004

Manchuela, Spain.

The flagship winery of Manchuela is owned by Victor de la Serna (a leading Spanish wine writer) This wine is mainly Syrah and gives an instant hit of vanilla and sweet fruit. Sweetness and spice, it reminded me of rice pudding for some reason. Smoky dark fruit. Fresh acidity and a dry finish make this a very good wine that needs food. This was certainly one of the favourites among the tasters and out of the three Syrah's this one only just beat the Gestad to the top spot.

Passopisciaro Red 2004

Sicily IGT, Italy

I would get this for the name of the grape variety alone; Nerello Mascalese. It produced bright red fruits and a mineral, flinty character. As it grows on the slopes of Mount Etna that may not come as a total surprise. The palate of cherry fruit and chewy tannins make this a classy wine.