Thursday 19 October 2006

Mike Brown is almost all you expect from a dynamic Australian winemaker. Tall, pragmatic, laid-back and totally Australian, but above all passionate and committed to making the best wine possible. He is a great believer in the concept that great wines are made in the vineyard; and if Gemtree is the result, I think he has a point.

Gemtree Vineyards is first and foremost a family concern. The Buttery family has owned the land in the McLaren Vale, south of Adelaide, for over 20 years. Around 80% of the grapes grown are sold off, but the other 20% are turned into some pretty impressive wines. Mike got into the family by marrying Melissa Buttery, now Gemtree's viticulturist.

The McLaren Vale is close to the South Australia coastline and has a Mediterranean climate. Long, warm summers and cool winters, combined with predominantly limestone soils, create some perfect growing conditions for Shiraz, the mainstay of the winery. Mike also makes an impressive Chardonnay and a Bordeaux blend known as 'Tatty Road', but the most impressive wines in my view are the 'Uncut Shiraz' and his top wine, 'Obsidian', also made from 100% Shiraz grown on the hardest dirt corner of the vineyard. Less than 1% of Gemtree's total production.

Mike's vision of producing the best the vineyard can yield is underlined by his and the family's commitment to sustainable viticulture. As Mike explained he will only do something that will ultimately increase the quality of the output and is not averse to practicing biodynamic principles where he feels they have positive impact on the grapes and therefore, the wines.

This commitment is shown in the creation of a 10 ha wetland project the family has embarked on, right in the heart of the vineyards.

So what about the wines?

Generally, the style of the red McLaren Vale wines are fleshier with a touch more acidity than the Barossa wines. Mike believes in minimal intervention in the winery, stressing his philosophy of growing the perfect fruit and marrying it with the most appropriate processes in the winery, rather than going with the latest fad. His wines inevitably end up being powerful and concentrated but with great balance and personality.

After starting the evening with a glass of Billecart-Salmon Brut Reserve, it was time for Mike to show off the fruits of his labours;
 

Citrine

2005 Chardonnay

A soft, elegant nose. Pears and citrus fruit. On the palate this wine has a very distinct, silky mouth feel, due to 30% of the juice being fermented in new French oak. It displays a lovely balance of savoury notes with refreshing acidity. Great length showing the quality of the wine.

Tatty Road

2003

A blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Petit Verdot and 5% Merlot, coming from the oldest vineyard, Tatachilla (Tatty) Road. The nose is lovely and spicy, with blackcurrant fruit and slight minty and smoky notes in the background. The palate shows intense flavours of ripe raspberry and blackberry. Tannins are ripe and give the wine a soft structure.

Bloodstone Shiraz

2003

A deep purple wine with a sweet blueberry nose. Spicy oak (18 months in French and American oak) and a scent of smoky, crispy bacon give this a very intense and interesting nose. Fruit is at the forefront here with very soft tannins. An absolute delight.

Uncut Shiraz

2003

Hand selected fruit from the oldest vineyard. Minimal pruning of the vines is practiced and the fruit is fermented in open top tanks, gently pressed, with minimal fining and filtration required. Although a strong wine at 15%, it has an amazing balance.

Densely perfumed, smoky and spicy with plummy fruit and blueberries. The fruity, yet full-bodied start gives way to a savoury, meaty middle and a long, long finish. Smooth tannins give it a great structure. Powerful yet balanced, a great wine.

Obsidian Shiraz

2003

The fruit represents less than 1% of the total Shiraz production and Mike hand picks the barrels that make it into the Obsidian with great care. The barrels need to show power as well as elegance and concentration. Balance remains the watchword though. The resulting wines are aged in brand new French oak barriques for 30 months.

The dense purple colour gives it away as a powerful, yet still very young wine. The nose displays liquorice, sweet vanilla and a most comforting cocoa powder and coffee smell.

The powerful black fruit with a fine grain tannin structure show great promise as this does need time in the cellar. Mike suggests 10-20 years.

What was great about this tasting was being able to compare the Shiraz from the one vintage but different plots, displaying such differing characters. The family resemblance of power and balance was obvious on all of them. Mike is justifiably proud of his wines and mentioned the international waves they are making. From scooping the Decanter Trophy for best Rhone Varietal over £10 from Australia, going on to win the overall trophy to showing his wines to Robert Parker, the American wine critic only last Monday.....

....and then a tasting in a most opulent dining room in Glasgow's West End, finishing the tasting Australian rules with a bottle of beer.

Inverarity Vaults represents Gemtree in Scotland and stocks the entire catalogue of wines as described above. Prices range from £8.99 for the Chardonnay to £24.99 for the Obsidian. Although Inverarity is a trade-only merchant, supplying a long list of hotels and restaurants in Scotland, they are about to launch a consumer service, so keep your eyes peeled.

Oddbins also stock some of the mid-range wines, such as Tatty Road and Bloodstone, both around £10. The Mitchell Street store in Glasgow has some bottles signed with a personal message from Mike Brown. And as Mike was touring the Oddbins stores in London, you may come across a couple there.

www.gemtreevineyards.com.au

www.inverarity-vaults.com