After a journey over Germany's motorways, (don't be fooled into thinking they are fast as we took an additional hour or two due to the abundance of traffic jams and road works) we arrived at the St. Johannishof in Bernkastel which is home to Ernst Loosen of the famous Dr. Loosen estate.

We were welcomed into the library by Michael Stahlmann, who introduced us to the various ranges produced by Dr. Loosen. He also used an old map to show the way vineyards were classified (and to a certain extent still are) and explained the differences in soil types, microclimate and its impact on the various wines we tasted. All wines presented were from the 2004 vintage, a return to a classically good vintage after the freak heat of the 2003 summer. All wines were showing obvious, very refreshing acidity. Overall I would say the wines are beautifully balanced, they can be sweet, but never overpowering or cloying. There is a real lightness of touch and vibrancy to them, so incredibly far removed from the horrible £2.99 German plonk that gets churned out all too much.

Ernst Loosen, Decanter man of the year 2004, is a real ambassador for German Riesling, but also for Riesling in general, well made of course. On top of that the estate is located in one of the most stunning wine regions in the world. The steep Mosel valley around Bernkastel in the middle mosel.

Wehlener Sonnenuhr
Riesling Kabinett 2004
€8.70 - at the cellar door

The Wehlener Sonnenuhr vineyard is beautifully positioned above the river Mosel just in between Bernkastel and Wehlen. Sonnenuhr means sundial which you'll find in the vineyard and indicates a totally south-facing slope. The soil is the typical blue slate of the region which adds the wonderful mineral edge.

Incredibly lively, tingling sensation. Tropical fruit flavours and mineral. Well balanced racy acidity. I love this wine.

Urziger Wurzgarten
Riesling Spatlese 2004
€11.80 - at the cellar door

Fresh green herbs on the nose. Must be the name playing tricks with my brain as Wurzgarten means herb-garden. The spiciness is more obvious here and it's still incredibly balanced. We've moved up a level in sweetness with the Spatlese (late harvest), but you wouldn't know. Maybe a bit of honey and some spiced apple. Brilliant.

Erdener Treppchen
Riesling Auslese 2004
€22.00 - at the cellar door

Another step increase. The nose is still very light. On the palate though this is becoming really velvety and peachy. To me this wine is more about mouth feel than anything else, so beautiful. Michael suggests foie gras with this, which seems a marriage made in heaven to me. Very good.

The above wines are only a small selection of the 2004's we tasted at the very hospitable estate. These are also the ones that made it into the boot of our car to take home. One wine we didn't taste but took home anyway is the Erdener Pralat, Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 2004. You'll need to wait a few years for the tasting notes on that though as it's way too young to be opened now.

Over the next few weeks I'll be publishing more tasting notes on other extraordinary wines from this great region.