A morning spent in the Montagne de Reims.

The problem with Champagne (both the wine and the region) is where do you start? There are an infinite number of growers and negociants in the region and most are very happy for you to pop in and taste away. On one of our detours from Reims back to Ville-en-Selve, where we were staying, we happened upon a small village with the poetic name of Chigny-les-Roses. As it was a local holiday, the village was deserted, not a soul in sight other than the lonely statue of Louise Pommery in the main square named after her. Slightly to the side of the square was a large sign with all the names of the local Champagne houses and their location on the map. In excess of 40 names were on this list, still the village was tiny. Our decision took only a second or two. This is where we would start our quest for the perfect Champagne the next day.

Early that rainy day, yet with a sense of occasion, we set off on our quest. Among the producers we visited was the house of Gardet. Mme. Aude very kindly showed us into a beautiful, Victorian looking, conservatory. I'm sure it's not called Victorian in France, but you get the idea. Without further ado the glasses and bottles came out and we tasted through the entire range of pretty impressive Champagnes.

From the zesty Brut Tradition, not generally available in the UK to the lovely complex and lively Brut Special, house Champagne of the Dorchester Hotel in London, but also the wine used in the 'own label' bottling for Jenners in Edinburgh and Peckham's in Glasgow. The Brut Special is also bottled in magnums (1.5 litres).

The Brut Rose from the 2000 vintage had a gorgeous nose of strawberry tart and a soft red berry palate. A perfect summer wedding wine as it turned out. One of the panel chose this as the wine to bring back for his sister's wedding.

Gardet produce two high-end cuvees, Rose Saignee Charles Gardet, of which we tasted the 2001 vintage. It has a very fine nose, concentrated with sweet red fruits.

The second one is the Cuvee Charles Gardet Brut, of which we tasted the 1999. Again, the nose is wonderfully complex. A very fine and balanced Champagne. And great value at the cellar door.

The village of Chigny-les-Roses started out simply Chigny. It wasn't until the death of Louise Pommery, who owned the famous house of Pommery that the village got its extras added. Louise, another one of the famous Veuves (widows), had a second home in Chigny, a place she loved dearly. The summerhouse had a wonderful rose garden, which was Louise's favourite flower. She was honoured after her death for her contribution to Champagne and the name of Chigny was changed by presidential decree to Chigny-les-Roses.

A few other houses of note can be found in the village. The very small producer Jacky Dumangin is right in the middle of town, just off the main road and the tasting room is basically the garage. The Champagne is of excellent quality and very reasonable. Roughly around 45000 bottles are produced annually. This does mean they charge you for tasting the wine, although this was very kindly taken off the bill  again when we ended up buying.

Both the Brut Grande Reserve and the Brut Rose are notable. I particularly liked the Brut Grande Reserve, with its lovely fragrant full nose, with biscuity, savoury aromas. Good complexity, yet still refreshing.

Cattier is the third house visited and is very different. It is more business-like than either of the other two, with an office that looks like it should be on an out of town industrial estate. Modern, sleek, but with a Blanc de Blancs to die for. Very fine mousse, elegant and creamy. Cattier also make Champagne for Maxim's of Paris, just for a bit of name dropping.

All three producers were visited without appointments, which is fine if they are quiet, but they would always prefer you to give them some notice, especially if you're looking for a cellar tour as well. At Cattier they were happy to show us the production facilities as a little extra, which actually seem remarkably small scale for a production of just under a million bottles a year.

No matter that it rained that day, the Champagne soon brightened that up as did the hospitable Champenois. You could spend an entire week in Chigny-les-Roses and never drink the same wine twice. And how many villages are in Champagne again.............?