What makes a wine Biodynamic?

16 March 2006.

On a few occasions now, I have been talking about biodynamic wine. So I thought it was time to get some more information on the site to explain what 'biodynamic' actually means.

For a wine to be biodynamic, the grapes have to be grown according to the principles of biodynamic farming. If you think this is simply an organic means of growing grapes you couldn't be further from the truth. Although it very much follows organic viticulture from the perspective of not using chemical sprays and fertilizers, bio dynamism is much more a conviction, an ideological and spiritual approach to growing the healthiest possible grapes. The most significant deviation from organic viticulture is the holistic view applied to the vineyard, the vines, the soil and the cosmos. This leads to one of the more controversial aspects of bio dynamism, namely it's belief that work in the vineyard and winery is planned according to the position of the moon and the planets.

Biodynamic principles were very much influenced by Rudolf Steiner, who was born in Austria in 1861. His spiritual teachings influenced many aspects of life, but it is his views on holistic farming, in tune with nature and all around us that forms the basis of today's bio dynamism.

So, what do they do on a daily basis then, I hear you ask. Those that follow the teachings religiously, for want of a better word, go to extremes. Preparations such as dung compost, horn dung and silica are used as fertilizers. Herbs and flowers such as nettle, dandelion, camomile, valerian as well as oak, are used as alternatives to chemical pesticides. All these preparations are made 'dynamic' by mixing them in water whilst stirring both clockwise and counter clockwise for set times. The entire wine-making calendar follows the cycles of the moon and this even follows in many cases into the cellar. Some winemakers will not bottle their wines when there is a full moon as the deposit won't settle properly.

Whether you believe in the principles of biodynamic winemaking, or not the results are convincing. The recent Panel Tasting Winter Warmers winner (Cuvee 21) came from a winery called Les Clos Perdus, which is run along biodynamic principles. The two other wines produced by Paul Old and Hugo Stewart from Les Clos Perdus are described further down and are also pretty special.

It is generally observed that grapes are healthier, in some cases grape bunches are actually growing up towards the light, rather than hanging down.

Detractors would argue that this is simply due to the fact that the viticulture is in fact organic, however some larger producers use both methods and many report better wines are made biodynamically. The most exclusive Burgundy Domaine de la Romanee Conti is currently experimenting with a small plot in order to investigate the claims.

If nothing else, it has to be the absolute conviction that these committed winemakers have in their vineyards, which has to make the wine special. So, it's really up to you now to make up your own mind.

Les Clos Perdus

Prioundo 2004

Corbieres - France

www.lesclosperdus.com - £7.50

Less concentrated than the Cuvee 21, which bowled us over at the recent panel tasting. But that doesn't mean it's less good. Lovely, slightly mineral nose. I'm getting an almost salty, herby tang from it. On the palate this is fresh, juicy raspberry and very well structured. The acidity is lively, making this an absolute pleasure to drink. Great length.

Made with 70% Grenache with the remainder being Cinsault.

Les Clos Perdus

l'Extreme 2004

Vin de Table de France

www.lesclosperdus.com - £11.25

Don't be fooled by the lowly 'Vin de Table' description on the label. In this case it just means the winemakers didn't follow the specific rules of the Roussillon appellation controlee (AC), which is where the grapes are grown. It certainly does not mean an inferior wine, quite the opposite.

A lovely full, almost meaty nose and something flowery, like roses. The palate is full of black fruit, brambles, cherries, with well structured tannins. There's a lovely hint of coffee on the endless finish. This is drinking very well now, especially decanted to help it open up, but it will easily keep.

The wines of Les Clos Perdus only sell directly from the winemakers, which has the benefit of keeping the prices very reasonable, making these wines fantastic value for money. The wine sells in mixed cases at £95 per case for four bottles of each.

For more biodynamic wines see:

Child's Play featuring the Val d'Eleon, produced by Marc Kreydenweiss in the Alsace.

Panel Tasting Winter Warmers featuring the Cuvee 21, produced by Les Clos Perdus.