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What to drink this winter; A tasting of IWSC Medal
Winners - November 2008 Back in May I
was lucky enough to be able to join the International
Wine and Spirit Competition (IWSC)
as an associate judge. For two days my palate was
subjected to the most tortuous test, tasting over 100
different brandies and eaux-de-vie. It was a baptism of
spirits but I immensely enjoyed it (must be my
masochistic side) and it taught me an enormous amount
about tasting under time-pressure.
Following on from these two days, a
few well-deserved days relaxing in the Champagne region
followed which soon recharged the batteries.
In the mean time the medals have been
awarded and published (see the
IWSC website for more
information). A number of judges and associate judges
got together in October in the very picturesque setting
of Denbies Vineyards in Dorking. Just under an hour’s
train journey outside London you imagine yourself in
deepest vinous France. Rolling hills and vines as far as
the eye can see in the most colourful of autumn foliage.
The IWSC was showing off a number of ‘Best in Class’
wines from the competition, mostly silver medal winners.
This should be an interesting tasting and I have to say
that bar one or two exceptions the wines in the main
were good to excellent and I wasn’t disappointed.
Re-reading my notes, they are a tad rudimentary, but
it’ll have to do. No prices were stated but you can use
www.wine-searcher.com to find these wines.
Whites:
Wakefield, Clare Valley, Riesling 2008
(Australia)
Fragrant ripe citrus, very well-judged
acidity, clean refreshing limey palate.
Rieflé 2005, Grand Cru Steinert (Alsace,
France)
Quite honeyed petrol nose. Med(+) body.
Very well balanced acidity. Freshness with bitter lemon
rind fruit and minerality. Excellent.
Moncaro, Fondiglie, Verdicchio dei
Castelli di Jesi, Classico Superiore 2007 (Italy)
A bit boiled cabbage, sweaty on the nose.
Fresh lemony, melon with a hint of bitterness. Medium
body and acidity. Not sure if this warrants silver
though.
Sonoma-Cutrer 2006, Sonoma Coast
Chardonnay (California)
Melon, hint of butter. Full bodied, melon
and apple fruit. Medium acidity, slightly high on
alcohol. (13.9%) but good.
The FMC 2006, Forrester Meinert Chenin
Blanc, Stellenbosch (S.A)
Creamy apple nose, like a really
characterful chardonnay. Soft palate with apply fruit
and real acidic backbone. Excellent.
I later found out this retails for around
£20 and, although steep, it doesn’t surprise me.
Torres Fransola, Sauvignon Blanc, Penedes
2007 (Spain)
Typical grassy gooseberry SB nose.
Focussed and almost NZ like. Softer on the palate with
medium acidity. Good.
Domaine Laroche, Chablis Saint Martin
2006 (France)
Relatively light neutral nose. Med+ apply
acidity, fresh. No more than ok.
Mount Riley Pinot Gris 2008, New Zealand
Almost SB (Sauvignon Blanc) like on the
nose. Fresh, floral and citrus notes. Fatter on the
palate but with plenty of freshness and ripe peachy
notes. Delicious.
Equinox Pinot Gris, Waipara Hills 2007
(New Zealand)
More cool and mineral on the nose than
the Mount Riley. Well balanced fruit and acidity. Very
good.
Tahbilk 2006 Marsanne (Australia)
Mineral, petrol, Riesling like nose. Very
well balanced on the palate, body and acidity, apple and
citrus. Interesting wine. Good.
Cape Point Winery, Isliedh 2006, Cape
Point, Fish Hoek (S.A)
Not sure what blend this is but
definitely has SB in it. Maybe Semillon/ Chardonnay or
Chenin? Well balanced fruity wine, citrus and tropical,
great balanced acidity and fairly complex. Spiciness
from the oak. Lovely.
Actually Sauvignon (78) and Semillon
(22). With batonage 10 months on lees in barrel.
Reds:
Kingston Echelon, South Australia Shiraz
2005
Nice fresh berry nose. Full on and ripe
but very well balanced. Dark fruits and liquorice with
ripe tannins. Expert.
Vergelegen 2005 (S.A)
CF 55 – M 26 – CS 19
Cassis and peppery nose and some green
leafy aromas. Fresh cassis with a hint of mint.
Restraint if somewhat green and a tad harsh.
Amarone della Valpolicella (CS.
Valpantena) Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference
Dark brooding coffee nose, prunes and a
hint of cinnamon. Noticeable ripe tannins on what seems
almost like a café latte. Cherry and tobacco. Full
bodied, warming and spicy. Pretty good and good value.
Yarden – Galilee Merlot 2003 – Golan
Heights (Israel)
Woody, smoky, spicy plums. Tannins a bit
too dry and stalky for my liking. Not for me.
Cortea Vistalba 2004, Argentina, Mendoza
The bottle is ludicrously heavy. I think
they’re trying to tell us this is a heavy, concentrated
wine. They’re right though. Incredibly dark and
concentrated, spicy fruit, but surprisingly agile on the
palate. Ripe tannins galore but all in balance. Hot,
full bodied and spicy and I kind of like it.
Saint Joseph – Preference 2006 – Caves St
Pierre (France)
A little stinky, farmyardy on the nose.
Medium+ to full bodied with fresh dark fruit on the
palate and a little pepper. Nice, characterful wine.
Simonsig, Stellenbosch, Tiara 2001, South
Africa
CS 70 - M 26 - CF 4
Nice age to it. Mellow, a little spice
and furniture polish and a hint of leather. Cassis and
plums. Almost classic Bordeaux.
Haan, Barossa Valley, Wilhelmus 2005
(Australia)
Sweet cassis nose and a hint of
leafiness. Fresh palate with good fruit intensity and
overall balance. Memorable? Not really.
Villa Maria, Seddon Vineyard Pinot
Noir 2006, Marlborough (NZ)
Smelly, almost to the point of being
Syrah from the Cote du Rhone. Not the elegance I was
expecting. Lively palate though I’m not sure about this
one.
Abbotts Notus, Syrah 2006, Minervois
(France)
Soft, ripe and spicy. Easy drinking with
ripe tannic backbone and balanced acidity. Good.
Herencia del Padri, Priorat 2005 Bernard
Magréz (Spain)
Lovely complex notes of spicy vanilla,
plums, leather and coffee. Ripe medium+ tannins. Dark
brambly fruit with spicy complexity. A real complex
winter warmer. Absoluty stunningly delicious. Carignan
dominated (known as Samso in this part of Spain).
Aragonez, Cortes de Cima, Alentejano 2004
(Portugal)
Fresh raspberry/ strawberry nose. Juicy
with nice complexity although I find the tannins just a
tad too drying and astringent. Would need some food to
soften it up, but I like it and it has a few years life
left in it yet.
Yali Grand Reserve 2006, Carmenere, Chile
Youthful dark cherry on the concentrated
nose and palate. Very modern and juicy with soft ripe
tannins. Good.
Bodegas Ramon Bilbao, Vina Turzaballa
Gran Reserva 1999, Rioja.
Lightish fruity nose. Good fruit overall
and a nice wine but not particularly special.
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